Spanish and Gypsy, dedicated to Juana Martin in Haute Couture

With Rossy de Palma dancing flamenco to a guitar background to open the show, Spanish designer and gypsy Juana Martin entered the elite world of haute couture in Paris on Thursday.

Red mouth, long embroidered white coat, the Spanish actress, Pedro Almodovar’s muse and fashion icon, advances, concentrated, on the path of a garden before moving the handles in flamenco.

A singer and a guitarist animate this Andalusian-themed parade on the last day of Haute Couture Week, an event held exclusively in Paris.

“I’m very proud of Juana. I’ve always followed her, I’ve seen all the effort she made, all her work, all her talent,” Rossy de Palma told AFP from behind the scenes before the starting parade. “Look at that coat, it’s a bomb!”

Embossed leather and Andalusian hat

At 47, Juana Martin is the first Spaniard to plunge into the quiet world of haute couture. The one who has been wearing the colors and know-how of her native Andalusia for 15 years is also the only gypsy among this peak of creators.

The collection is almost entirely in black. The silver-embossed Cordoba leather and solid silver rose-shaped earrings bring him the “light of Andalusia,” Juana Martin explains to AFP.

The abundance of ruffles is reminiscent of flamenco dresses, but in a subtle way. Asymmetrical cuts and flat shoes shift them and make them modern.

Dresses with sculptural, voluminous sleeves sit alongside very modern and wearable shift dresses and oversized jackets.

On the catwalk, the Andalusian hats worn by the designer with his pantsuit are exaggerated and openwork. One, orange and paired with gloves, brings a touch of color to this open-air parade in the garden of a Parisian high school.

“It’s a lot of years of hard work that has been rewarded,” says Juana Martin, who was interviewed by AFP on the sidelines of the parade.

Juana Martin is a hard worker. She got her ticket to this worldwide unique circle with sheer strength and by presenting her collections parallel to the Haute Couture Week in Paris for four years.

“universal talent”

Only three other Spaniards – Cristobal Balenciaga, Paco Rabanne and Josep Font – stood out in haute couture.

Born in Cordoba, southern Spain, in 1974, she grew up in modest circumstances in a gypsy family. Her father owned tailor shops and worked as a street vendor in local markets.

In these workshops, where she spent her time as a child, she was introduced to sewing and learned the intricacies of the craft “in contact with people who worked in the traditional way and mostly by hand,” she told AFP in June.

Her career began in 1999 when her collection was chosen from more than 150 projects to represent Cordoba in the Spanish competition for young sewing talents.

In 2005, she was the first Andalusian Gypsy to parade during Madrid Fashion Week.

“It was a dream to hold the standard of Spain, Andalusia, the working woman, the mother woman, the fighting woman. That’s fundamental for me,” she summarizes.

“She brings her universal talent, but also her roots, her folklore, her traditions. That was what was missing,” emphasizes Rossy de Palma, muse of several luxury designers whose appearances at Paris parades and on the red carpet do not go unnoticed.

“We had to give her what she deserved,” says the actress, who has worn pieces by Juana Martin in Venice and Cannes.

This article was published automatically. Sources: ats/afp

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